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Amumu is a lot of things. He is a tank, a jungler, a mage, an initiator, a snarer and stunner, a debuffer, an anti-tank, a farmer... He fits into a lot of teams well.
He's a weak laner, but paired with a mage, he can debuff MR for large damage. Paired with any ranged character, he can act as a great buffer between the enemy's attacks and their target. This is not only thanks to his tankiness, but the wide area effect and easy firing of skills like Tantrum--your enemies will have trouble passing you, and won't be able to do it without taking some damage. Still, he lacks range of his own, outside of Bandage Toss (BT), and has somewhat low damage output, especially early on.
But as the game goes on, and you leave the laning phase, Amumu begins to shine. BT, with its range and stun, lets Amumu carry his weight in ganks (while jungling beautifully on Wraiths, Golem and Dragon). But better yet, his "combo"--BT, turn Despair on, Tantrum, and when they're about to leave, use Curse of the Sad Mummy (CSM)--coupled with his tankiness, makes Amumu second to none as a team fight initiator. He comes out of nowhere, eats burst damage, deals damage to the enemy team, and locks them in place for two seconds while your allies swoop in and kill everything--as your enemies can no longer move, and just wasted their skills. At this point, Amumu walks away, allows everything to regenerate, and comes back in very soon to clean up stragglers with Bandage Toss.
I go with Flash and Ghost, and I usually use them both defensively. The idea is that, with Amumu being a tank, he's very close to the magical point where he can never die. Adding these two spells brings him much closer to that point, and allows him to get away, and regenerate with Force of Nature (FoN), wait for CSM and Guardian Angel (GA) to cool down, or, of course, recall. I devote a mastery to making Ghost last longer and give Amumu even more speed.
Of course, the two spells can also both be used offensively. BT->Flash can get you right into the middle of a huge steaming pile of opponents before they realize what just happened, and Flashing in the jungle helps make Amumu a dominant force there.
Quintessences of Fortitude (Fixed Health) -- Aside from the obvious (health is nice), these Quintessences really shine in the early laning phase, where Amumu is weak. Coupled with the Regrowth Pendant as his first item, they enable a good Amumu to last rather long before having to recall.
Seals of Clarity (Mana Regen per Level) work to the same effect--allowing Amumu to stay out of base for longer--and make up for the relatively low Mana Regen in this build--when you don't have the Golem Buff, that is.
Marks of Insight (Flat MPen) -- Amumu has loads of MPen available to him with his passive, Abyssal Scepter, and these runes. MPen isn't really the first thing Amumu needs, but it doesn't hurt. And as long as we're going primary, Marks of Insight are the only magic-related primary marks. Luckily, damage calculation makes it possible for the enemy to have negative magic resistance, and for you to do extra magic damage as a result.
Glyphs of Shielding (MR per Level) -- These are great, primary defensive glyphs. Sometimes, it can be hard to itemize for MR, and these help relieve you that problem.